Luca Canevaro: the rebirth of Timorasso, the jawel of Tortona

There’s a certain white grape varietal that for centuries was all the rage in Piedmont, or rather in the area around Tortona, because that’s where it’s from and, due to the unique characteristics of the climate and the terrain, it was unable to adapt to other areas. We could call it a “patriotic” varietal, emblematic of an oenological parochialism (in a positive sense, of course) which has perhaps been a bit lost. It’s the vigorous, rustic, and strong Timorasso, a varietal that creates a full-bodied wine with a delicate fragrance, almost as though it reflects the people of this region.

A BIT OF HISTORY

The cultivation of Timorasso gets lost in the labyrinth of history. It has been present in the province of Alessandria since ancient times, but the first written records date back to the famous agricultural treatise by Pietro de’ Crescenzi (14th century). The Di Rovasenda family’s Ampelographic Bulletin (1885) confirms that it was the most widely cultivated varietal in the area around Tortona,

in particular in three valleys: from east to west, Curone Valley, Grue Valley, and Ossona Valley.

At the time it’s presence also extended into the Borbera Valley, the Novese territory, and the Oltrepò Pavese.

It was also for this reason that it became the most important white varietal in Piedmont, in terms of both its extent and the amount produced. The State Archives of Turin help us to partially reconstruct its heyday through mention of the elusive “Torbolino”, which dealers, between the two wars, sold primarily in Northern Europe; a young and semi-processed product that was none other than the “unripe” Timorasso.

After WWII, its popularity declined: the exodus from the countryside and difficulty in adapting the varietal to areas other than those around Tortona caused it to nearly disappear.

Until the 1990s, that is, when it was relaunched by a group of knowledgeable winemakers led by Walter Massa who triggered its comeback. In the wake of this rediscovery, we met one of the partners of the Vinhood Community, Luca Canevaro, who has turned Timorasso into his own coat of arms.

LUCA CANEVARO

Luca began his entrepreneurial adventure in 2016, from an offshoot of the family company. Right away he proved to have very clear ideas. He began focusing on relaunching products that were closely connected to the region, became very interested in organic agriculture (at the moment the company, led by Luca, has approximately 8 hectares of fully certified organically farmed vineyards), and immediately joined FIVI, the Italian federation of independent winemakers, believing strongly in this project which brings together all of the small winemakers in Italy who are focused on the production of traditional, authentic, and original wines.

Approaching Timorasso was, therefore, a natural progression.

As was working strenuously to relaunch it as a wine with unique and distinct territorial characteristics.

“The rediscovery of this ancient varietal”, explains Luca, “undoubtedly led to the rediscovery of all of its rich attributes: a region to explore, visit, and taste, where the many culinary products, like the Salame Nobile of Giarolo, the peach of Volpedo, the white truffle of San Sebastiano, the cheese of Montebore, the “Bella” cherry of Garbagna, the scented strawberry and “pane grosso” of Tortona … are happily paired with local wines.”

THE WINE

The wine made from Timorasso grapes is generally a well-structured and full-bodied white with an intense straw-like color.

Its fragrance (fruity and floral) is very delicate.

It is a wine that ages well. “Young” it’s an excellent aperitif to serve with appetizers and cured meats.

When it has aged, it pairs well with truffle-based pasta dishes, fresh cheeses, white meats, and fish.

According to the ethnography of Vinhood’s #Characters, it is an #Intense wine.

Take the Taste Test and find out if it corresponds with your perfect wine #Character!