What is speciality coffee and what makes it so special?

Specialty coffee is by now a well-known term. It is both a specific, precise definition, as well as a notion, movement, more of a fluid concept and philosophy. Let’s take a look at both of these perspectives of specialty coffee. 

Although it’s surrounded by loads of buzz and PR, specialty coffee is not as big as some of you might think. For sure it has its huge importance, and it’s definitely the more photogenic and romantic niche of the coffee industry, but in fact, “specialty coffee” is only approximately 10% of the global coffee production.

SO WHAT IS ACTUALLY SPECIALTY COFFEE?

The coffee supply chain could be broken down into five main segments: 

• ORIGIN, FARM 
• SOURCING, TRADING 
• ROASTING 
• PREPARATION, COFFEE SHOP 
• CONSUMER

These segments definitely relate to both ends of the industry: commodity and specialty. The difference though is how each and every one of these five segments are perceived and managed. Obviously they exist on either ends, yet it’s all about the approach within each one of them. 

Let’s try to use our creativity. Imagine you walk into a coffee shop, and within the first two minutes, you notice five different distinctive details in it. Try to think about it almost like a check-list:

1. 1. On all coffee bags around the shop, next to the coffee grinders or maybe on the menu, you see names of farms, producers and countries. 
   2. You realize that around you, you find detailed information about prices, importers, transparency and value chain. 
   3. You take a look at the grinders, or generally the coffee beans the barista is using, and you recognize that their color is light brown and not dark and oily. You scent delicate and floral aromas rather than burnt and intense ones.
   4. You notice that the person who’s making the drinks speaks like a sommelier, but a coffee sommelier. That they’re using scales, modern equipment and their bar is tidy and clean. They prepare their clients’ coffees masterfully. 
   5. Final point of the check-list is yourself. You’re inside the coffee shop and you realize that this coffee shop is all about COFFEE. But truly about the coffee itself, nothing around it. And actually, you find yourself in this shop for a very specific reason: you wanted to enjoy a delicious, unique cup of coffee. 

photo by: Yoni Nimrod

THE DEFINITION OF SPECIALTY COFFEE BEANS

This is, in a way, what specialty coffee is. If we go into terms and definitions, specialty coffee beans are simply those that scored 80+ points by professional quality graders. This grading is based on two parts: green coffee evaluation and a standardised cupping. Green beans could be considered “specialty grade” only if they’re free of primary defects, well-sorted and dried properly. Roasted specialty beans are evaluated by a formal tasting sheet, cupping, based on sensorial qualities: overall taste, acidity, sweetness, body and more. 

BUT WHAT MAKES THEM “SPECIAL”?

More holistically, philosophically and spiritually, specialty coffee encapsulates a whole world of flavors, aromas, values, nature and people. Of course its primary goal is to simply be delicious and clean, but to me, the true and deeper meaning is slightly more subjective and fluid; it must include environmental awareness, social responsibility and long term relationship. The word sustainability by now has become such an empty cliche’, but it still is the leading guideline of what specialty coffee is. 

It’s not surprising that many of the average specialty coffee consumers are people who are more into topics like sustainability, environment, moderate consumption, equity and equality. Not only consumers though – it’s very common that even on the other side of the supply chain these topics are a top priority – usually specialty coffee farm workers are being paid higher than average and have improved social conditions. The same goes to the farm itself – very often it possesses a rich biodiversity, healthy soil and is fully organic. 

photo by: Saar Avrashi