{"id":25005,"date":"2023-08-04T16:33:35","date_gmt":"2023-08-04T14:33:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/?p=25005"},"modified":"2023-08-04T16:33:35","modified_gmt":"2023-08-04T14:33:35","slug":"producer-of-tea-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/en\/magazine-en\/producer-of-tea-part-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Producer of Tea, Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"fusion-fullwidth fullwidth-box fusion-builder-row-1 fusion-flex-container has-pattern-background has-mask-background fusion-parallax-none nonhundred-percent-fullwidth non-hundred-percent-height-scrolling lazyload\" style=\"--awb-background-position:center top;--awb-background-repeat:repeat-y;--awb-border-radius-top-left:0px;--awb-border-radius-top-right:0px;--awb-border-radius-bottom-right:0px;--awb-border-radius-bottom-left:0px;--awb-padding-top:10px;--awb-padding-right:30px;--awb-padding-bottom:10px;--awb-padding-left:30px;--awb-flex-wrap:wrap;\" data-bg=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/element_articolo_2mid-1000.png\" ><div class=\"fusion-builder-row fusion-row fusion-flex-align-items-flex-start fusion-flex-content-wrap\" style=\"max-width:1996.8px;margin-left: calc(-4% \/ 2 );margin-right: calc(-4% \/ 2 );\"><div class=\"fusion-layout-column fusion_builder_column fusion-builder-column-0 fusion_builder_column_1_1 1_1 fusion-flex-column\" style=\"--awb-bg-size:cover;--awb-width-large:100%;--awb-margin-top-large:0px;--awb-spacing-right-large:1.92%;--awb-margin-bottom-large:20px;--awb-spacing-left-large:1.92%;--awb-width-medium:100%;--awb-spacing-right-medium:1.92%;--awb-spacing-left-medium:1.92%;--awb-width-small:100%;--awb-spacing-right-small:1.92%;--awb-spacing-left-small:1.92%;\" id=\"magazine-article\"><div class=\"fusion-column-wrapper fusion-column-has-shadow fusion-flex-justify-content-flex-start fusion-content-layout-column\"><div class=\"fusion-text fusion-text-1\"><p><b>It\u2019s a well-known fact that India comes in second in the global ranking of the primary tea-producing countries.\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In India, the custom of drinking tea<\/span><b> is a legacy left by the British colonizers<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> who were the architects of the tea industry\u2019s development in this country.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The success was such that this enjoyable habit quickly became a daily ritual and, to this day, overcomes all economic barriers and social disparities.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But before we look more closely at India\u2019s tea producing regions,<\/span><b> let&#8217;s go back about two centuries.<\/b><\/p>\n<h2><b>A GLIMPSE AT ITS ORIGINS<\/b><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Way back in 1788, <\/span><b>Sir Joseph Banks, a renowned botanist and president of the Royal Society, was the first to suggest that the climate of Assam could be suitable for tea cultivation.<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> However, the Board of Directors of the English company showed little interest, preferring to prioritize the sourcing of tea from China, through profitable, yet illegal, trade involving Chinese tea and Indian opium. <\/span><b>It was only after the Opium Wars that the British Crown began considering the need to encourage tea production in other areas of the British colonial Empire.<\/b><\/p>\n<p><b>China\u2019s monopoly on tea production needed to be broken. <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And what better way to do it than by exploring the possibility of cultivating tea in a country, India, that was under the control of the East India Company?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Thus, research began, initially with skepticism due to repeated failed experiments, but eventually with greater optimism, leading finally to success.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Finally, on <\/span><b>May 8, 1838, in London<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, tea aficionados <\/span><b>eagerly awaited the arrival of the Calcutta, a ship carrying the first precious cargo <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">from this distant and exotic land.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"lazyload size-full wp-image-25006 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4.jpg\" data-orig-src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4.jpg\" alt=\"nave \" width=\"800\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"data:image\/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20xmlns%3D%27http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%27%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20viewBox%3D%270%200%20800%20400%27%3E%3Crect%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20fill-opacity%3D%220%22%2F%3E%3C%2Fsvg%3E\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4-200x100.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4-400x200.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4-500x250.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4-600x300.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4-700x350.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_4.jpg 800w\" data-sizes=\"auto\" data-orig-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/b><\/p>\n<h2><b>TEA RESEARCH IN UPPER ASSAM<\/b><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">With the image of today\u2019s familiar tea &#8220;bush&#8221; in mind, it\u2019s difficult to imagine that the original tea plant, before pruning, was a <\/span><b>tall and robust tree with large leaves,<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> measuring up to 20-22 cm in length and 10 cm in width.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The first to have this intuition was Scottish merchant Robert Bruce. Unfortunately, he passed away before receiving confirmation from the Calcutta Botanical Garden that he had discovered a native variety of tea, different from the already well-known Chinese one. The confirmation was delivered to his brother Charles, who, for years, had struggled to make it known that a high quality tea could also be produced from the country\u2019s indigenous tea plant. But with great determination and the help of two Chinese producers whom he recruited, Charles <\/span><b>sent a shipment of forty-six cases aboard the Calcutta to the Tea Committee in London<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.<\/span> <span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Unfortunately, many of the cases became moldy during transport, with only eight arriving in good condition. A committee, comprised of members of the East India Company and renowned tea experts like Richard Twinings,<\/span><b> inspected the shipment and approved its quality.<\/b><\/p>\n<p><b>This success sparked such euphoria that English investors founded the Assam Company in order to lease land for tea cultivation.<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Over the next two centuries,<\/span><b> the Assam state became the largest tea production area in the world.<\/b><\/p>\n<p><b>Meanwhile, in Darjeeling&#8230;<\/b><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 1839, a civil surgeon named Dr. Campbell was transferred from Kathmandu to oversee the newly acquired region of Darjeeling, for which the English had obtained a lease from the Maharaja of Sikkim. They had come to realize how suitable these hearty hills were for establishing a sanatorium. However, the cool climate soon proved, above all, to be a great success for tea cultivation.<\/span><b> Dr. Campbell attempted to plant some tea seeds<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> (of the Chinese variety, not from Assam)<\/span><b> near his residence in Beechwood. <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Soon, several plants grew (still alive today) and, in 1847, the government decided to develop nurseries to attempt tea cultivation in this pre-Himalayan area.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"lazyload size-full wp-image-25012 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell.jpg\" data-orig-src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell.jpg\" alt=\"first\" width=\"800\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"data:image\/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20xmlns%3D%27http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%27%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20viewBox%3D%270%200%20800%20400%27%3E%3Crect%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20fill-opacity%3D%220%22%2F%3E%3C%2Fsvg%3E\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell-200x100.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell-400x200.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell-500x250.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell-600x300.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell-700x350.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_7_dottorCampbell.jpg 800w\" data-sizes=\"auto\" data-orig-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><b>Within a few decades, tea cultivation expanded to the neighboring region of Terai and later to Dooars, where the Assam variety proved to be more suitable.<\/b><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Moving to the northwest, the first commercial-scale tea plantation was established in the Kangra district in 1852.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2><b>IN SEARCH OF NEW OPPORTUNITIES<\/b><\/h2>\n<p><b>Tea\u2019s unstoppable success found new outlets in southern India, <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">where the first tiny tea sprouts were planted in an experimental plantation and, in 1854, a plantation near Coonoor became the first to produce Nilgiri tea. Literally \u201cBlue Mountains\u201d, in the Nilgiri region, thanks to its position and mild temperatures, tea can be harvested year round. This is why the area is in second place, after Assam, in terms of national annual yield.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"lazyload size-full wp-image-25010 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling.jpg\" data-orig-src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling.jpg\" alt=\"new\" width=\"800\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"data:image\/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20xmlns%3D%27http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%27%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20viewBox%3D%270%200%20800%20400%27%3E%3Crect%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20fill-opacity%3D%220%22%2F%3E%3C%2Fsvg%3E\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling-200x100.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling-400x200.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling-500x250.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling-600x300.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling-700x350.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_6_darjeeling.jpg 800w\" data-sizes=\"auto\" data-orig-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/b><\/p>\n<h2><b>THE FLAVOR OF DARJEELING TEA\u00a0<\/b><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The small and exclusive area around Darjeeling, in the state of western Bengala, is a true gem in India\u2019s treasure trove of tea. It extends along narrow valleys and slopes at the border between Nepal, Bhutan, and India. The picturesque town, perched at approximately 2,000 meters above sea level, gets its name from &#8220;Dorje&#8221; (thunderbolt, in the Tibetan language) and &#8220;Ling (place, land). And it\u2019s true: the region is often overcast with moody clouds that give rise to frequent rainfall. Thanks to the constant humidity and the clouds which envelop the plantations like a pure white cloak, some of the best teas in the world grow here. The exclusivity of Darjeeling tea has earned it the honor of being the first Indian product to obtain the Geographical Indication (GI) status. Thanks to this acknowledgment, no other tea can be labeled as \u201cDarjeeling\u201d unless it\u2019s produced in this specific district: only 87 tea plantations, scattered across these valleys in the foothills of the Himalayas. Every year the Darjeeling tea plantations produce approximately 9.6 million kilograms of tea, equal to slightly more than 1% of India\u2019s total production: a niche product with a unique taste that can be attributed to climate, terrain, incline, mountain fog, and rain, which characterize this <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">terroir<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. The majority of the plants belong to the original Chinese variety, Camellia Sinensis Sinensis, which is more delicate, complex, and fragrant as compared to the Assamica variety. Even its growth is slower and its leaves smaller.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"lazyload size-full wp-image-25016 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5.jpg\" data-orig-src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5.jpg\" alt=\"t\u00e8 nero\" width=\"800\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"data:image\/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20xmlns%3D%27http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%27%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20viewBox%3D%270%200%20800%20400%27%3E%3Crect%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20fill-opacity%3D%220%22%2F%3E%3C%2Fsvg%3E\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5-200x100.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5-400x200.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5-500x250.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5-600x300.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5-700x350.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_5.jpg 800w\" data-sizes=\"auto\" data-orig-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">These physical characteristics, together with a laborious harvest (entirely manual due to the very steep terrain), result in a lower productivity per hectare with respect to Assam or other production zones in India. This explains its higher market price.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In Darjeeling, tea isn\u2019t harvested throughout the year, but only during specific periods, for which the harvests are named. These are:<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">First Flush \u2013 from mid-March to the first week of May<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Second Flush \u2013 from the beginning of June to the first week of July<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Monsoon Flush \u2013 from mid-July to mid-October<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Autumnal Flush \u2013 from mid-October to mid-November<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><b>Every harvest is unique and has different characteristics from the others.<\/b><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"lazyload size-full wp-image-25014 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3.jpg\" data-orig-src=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3.jpg\" alt=\"raccolto\" width=\"800\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"data:image\/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20xmlns%3D%27http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%27%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20viewBox%3D%270%200%20800%20400%27%3E%3Crect%20width%3D%27800%27%20height%3D%27400%27%20fill-opacity%3D%220%22%2F%3E%3C%2Fsvg%3E\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3-200x100.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3-400x200.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3-500x250.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3-600x300.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3-700x350.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3-768x384.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/inner_india_te_3.jpg 800w\" data-sizes=\"auto\" data-orig-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The springtime harvest is more fragrant and floral and obtained from the fresher and more tender buds that grow after the plants\u2019 period of winter dormancy. If we want to make a comparison with wines, Darjeeling First Flush is a Beaujolais: an eagerly anticipated product once winter has subsided.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The Second Flush marks the arrival of summer and brings notes of ripe fruit to the cup, particularly muscatel. This harvest is also highly sought after by Darjeeling connoisseurs. Just think that the peak of muscatel lasts only five days!<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Meanwhile, the tea harvested during the monsoons is darker in the cup, less complex, and predominantly used in <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">blends<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Finally, there\u2019s the autumn harvest, less famous than the spring or summer teas, but noteworthy for its sweetness, without any astringency: a delightful treat to warm up a chilly November afternoon.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>AND SO<\/b><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">You\u2019re probably wondering why I decided to begin this exploration of the biggest tea producing countries with India.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The answer is simple: after a hiatus of almost three years due to the pandemic, I was fascinated by the idea of experiencing the moment of the first spring harvest in person. Besides representing the epitome of Indian tea production, it symbolizes rebirth, and, for me personally, the revival of my travels in search of rare and premium teas. <\/span><b>This country is so rich in allure that it\u2019s impossible to do it justice in just these few lines. <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Come back next month when we\u2019ll continue to explore tea production in Assam and discover other captivating corners of this vast and luxuriant corner of the world.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It\u2019s a well-known fact that India comes in second in the global ranking of the primary tea-producing countries.<br \/>\nBut before we look more closely at India\u2019s tea producing regions, let&#8217;s go back about two centuries.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":27,"featured_media":25021,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[102,83,652],"tags":[495],"solution_tag":[],"class_list":["post-25005","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-curiosity-and-education","category-magazine-en","category-public-post","tag-the"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Producer of Tea, Part 1 - Vinhood<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/en\/magazine-en\/producer-of-tea-part-1\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Producer of Tea, Part 1 - Vinhood\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"It\u2019s a well-known fact that India comes in second in the global ranking of the primary tea-producing countries.  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