{"id":17861,"date":"2022-11-21T11:40:47","date_gmt":"2022-11-21T10:40:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/uncategorized\/biere-a-la-chataigne-storia-damore-castagne-e-birra\/"},"modified":"2023-05-31T17:51:48","modified_gmt":"2023-05-31T15:51:48","slug":"biere-a-la-chataigne-storia-damore-castagne-e-birra","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/en\/magazine-en\/biere-a-la-chataigne-storia-damore-castagne-e-birra\/","title":{"rendered":"Bi\u00e8re a la Ch\u00e0taigne: chestnuts and beer, a love story"},"content":{"rendered":"

Chestnuts <\/b>are, even iconographically, <\/span>one of the undisputed symbols of fall and winter and<\/b>, though we may have forgotten it, were historically one of the cornerstones of the diet (<\/span>and above of all of the survival<\/span><\/i>) of half of Europe.<\/span><\/p>\n

Man has been eating them since, erect, he walked into to the world.<\/span><\/p>\n

THE DISCOVERY OF THE CHESTNUT<\/b><\/h2>\n

The first to appreciate the enormous potential of the chestnut tree were the ancient Greeks<\/b>. An abundant production of fruit, a significant source of calories and nutrients, high quality wood on par with oak and olive, and leaves and flowers that could be used for everything from medicine to filling pillows and mattresses. <\/span>The Greeks developed a true culture around this \u201cTree of Bread\u201d <\/b>(<\/span>similar to beer which was called \u201cliquid bread\u201d<\/span><\/i>), selecting the best varieties and constantly experimenting with new ways to use it in the kitchen.<\/span><\/p>\n

Could the Latins, <\/span>the Greeks\u2019 number-one fans<\/span><\/i>, observe this and not rush to include chestnuts in their feasts as well? <\/span>Never! <\/span><\/i>It was, in fact, <\/span>under the Roman Empire that the chestnut experienced its greatest geographical expansion<\/b>. Originally a Mediterranean plant, <\/span>it was exported to the four corners of the empire<\/b>, from England to Portugal, becoming omnipresent especially in central-southern Europe.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"birra<\/p>\n

TO THE MOUNTAINS, EVERYONE!<\/b><\/h2>\n

During the Middle Ages<\/b>, the ubiquitous Cenobitic Monastic Orders (<\/span>aka the founding fathers of beer<\/span><\/i>), led by <\/span>the Benedictines<\/b>, from Italy,<\/span> improved the plant\u2019s cultivation, reforested foothill areas, and studied preservation and transformation techniques<\/b>.<\/span><\/p>\n

The (inappropriately called) <\/span>barbarian invasions<\/b>, following the sack of Rome, <\/span>forced people to abandon rural areas <\/b>while the concurrent Medieval Agricultural Revolution created a significant demographic surge. In other words, it suddenly became necessary to <\/span>feed a lot of people<\/b>… and in the mountains!<\/span><\/p>\n

The heroic chestnut came to the rescue<\/b>, growing abundantly and generously where grains struggled and faltered, almost entirely replacing the scarce wheat and the hearty rye. <\/span>It was nutritious and high-calorie<\/b>, in a world based heavily on physical and manual labor, and, above all, it was <\/span>available year-round<\/b>: fresh in autumn, dried or ground in the other seasons. That\u2019s right, because <\/span>chestnuts can produce a delicious flour<\/b>, which is used in all kinds of recipes. Furthermore, contrary to wheat, <\/span>they could be ground directly at home<\/b>, after a lengthy drying period, thus allowing the humbler classes of the population to avoid paying the mill tax. It was <\/span>even possible to make bread or polenta<\/b> from this fruit when grains were scarce.<\/span><\/p>\n

Chestnuts thus became, for a long time, the <\/span>primary food of the lower classes<\/b>. This dietary habit <\/span>was exported by the Europeans to the New World as well<\/b>.<\/span><\/p>\n

THE RISE AND FALL OF THE CHESTNUT<\/b><\/h2>\n

The chestnut, especially in <\/span>Italy and France<\/b>, was so important that, like wheat, <\/span>it was used as money<\/b> for payment or as a product to be traded with.<\/span><\/p>\n

Up until the middle of the 20th century, <\/span>chestnut cultivation alone represented almost 50% of Italy\u2019s fruit production<\/b> and was one of the most important crops for our neighbors north of the Alps. Chestnuts were now exported worldwide and continued to be used abundantly in cuisine, from royal feasts to everyday meals.<\/span><\/p>\n

Then, aided by <\/span>WWII <\/b>and the subsequent reconstruction, industrialization, and post-war boom, <\/span>the European population began abandoning their small mountain towns<\/b> and foothill villages looking for stability and better living conditions, causing the <\/span>chestnut\u2019s rapid decline and fall<\/b>, in terms of both its production and use. It took only a few decades for us to completely forget how important the chestnut had been for centuries.<\/span><\/p>\n

A LOVE STORY<\/b><\/h2>\n

So it remained until <\/span>1992<\/b>, when <\/span>a beautiful love story, in true \u201c<\/b>love at first beer<\/i><\/b>\u201d style <\/b>(<\/span>don\u2019t say I\u2019m not romantic<\/span><\/i>) was born; a story which is definitely worth telling.<\/span> \u00a0<\/span>Dominique Sialelli was a proud Corsican<\/b>, but, like many islanders, <\/span>he had to emigrate <\/b>and abandon his island for economic reasons.<\/span><\/p>\n

He got a job in Paris<\/b>, the glittering capital of the French-speaking world, where <\/span>he met a Norman named Armelle, whom he fell in love with and married<\/b>. <\/span>Every summer the two would return to Petra Serena <\/b>(<\/span>or Pietraserena<\/span><\/i>), in northern Corsica, a small town with a population of only 76 and where the Sialelli family had its roots. And <\/span>every year, in September, it became harder and harder to leave<\/b>. <\/span>A sort of Call of the Wild<\/span><\/i>, \u00e0 la Jack London, was consuming Dominique.<\/span><\/p>\n

But <\/span>what was there to do in Corsica?<\/b> Especially now… with a family. Corte (<\/span>or Corti<\/span><\/i>), historic and cultural capital of Corsica, summer 1992, exterior evening. <\/span>I Muvrini<\/i><\/b> are performing<\/b>, one of the most well-known <\/span>world music<\/span><\/i> and Corsican folk music groups. It\u2019s a hot, August evening…very hot. The music is loud and it\u2019s crowded. Dominique and Armelle <\/span>are thirsty<\/b>. They sit down on a bar\u2019s terrace and <\/span>order a beer<\/b>. That\u2019s when they realize, for the first time, that… <\/span>Eureka<\/span><\/i>! <\/span>There are no Corsican beers! No brewery exists <\/b>(<\/span>or has ever existed<\/span><\/i>) <\/span>on the island!<\/b> Like true, young and foolish dreamers… maybe this is their chance!<\/span><\/p>\n

\"birra<\/p>\n

GETTING BACK TO THEIR ROOTS<\/b><\/h2>\n

But what kind of beer should they make to produce a <\/span>truly Corsican product<\/b>, one rooted in this region and capable of embodying its identity?<\/span><\/p>\n

Corsica is a rugged mountain<\/b> in the middle of the sea. <\/span>There aren\u2019t many spaces dedicated to agriculture<\/b>: along the coast vegetables and towards the summit olives and chestnuts.<\/span><\/p>\n

Grains (<\/span>essential for beer production<\/span><\/i>) are lacking. Thus an ancient French-Italian tradition, of which the island is a perfect amalgam, comes to the rescue: <\/span>the chestnut! <\/b>If it was possible to make bread and polenta from its flour (<\/span>common throughout Corsica<\/span><\/i>), <\/span>then why not try to brew it<\/b>? <\/span>Chestnut flour has a significant amount of starch <\/b>(50% in the form of fermentable sugars, if converted to simple sugars), and <\/span>protein <\/b>(6%, essential for the foam), almost comparable to that found in grains.<\/span><\/p>\n

A BRAND NEW STYLE<\/b><\/h2>\n

A year to get organized, two years of research, recipes, and trials, and finally, in <\/span>1995, the first Pietra wort <\/b>(<\/span>in honor of the town of origin<\/span><\/i>) was produced. A <\/span>chestnut <\/b>Amber Lager <\/i><\/b>with 6% ABV<\/b> and an <\/span>#Intriguing<\/span><\/a> character (<\/span>and if you still don\u2019t know what I\u2019m talking about, hurry and take the <\/span><\/i>Taste Test<\/span><\/i><\/a>): amber, clear, full bodied, well-balanced, delicately bitter, and with notes of chestnut flower and honey.<\/span>\u00a0<\/i><\/b><\/p>\n

The <\/span>first chestnut beer in history <\/b>was born, the <\/span>Bi\u00e8re \u00e0 la Ch\u00e2taigne<\/span><\/i>, on which the Americans then based the dictates of the new \u201cChestnut Ale\u201d style (<\/span>improperly called such as it is bottom fermented<\/span><\/i>). <\/span>Chestnuts do not entirely replace the use of malt <\/b>(<\/span>otherwise it wouldn\u2019t be beer<\/span><\/i>), but are blended with it in variable percentages, from 2% to 50%.<\/span><\/p>\n

The following year Dominique and Armelle opened their brewery, the <\/span>Brasserie Pietra<\/i><\/b><\/a>, in Furiani, Haute-Corse. The <\/span>chestnuts which are used come from a single chestnut grove in Castagniccia <\/b>(<\/span>true to its name<\/span><\/i>), located in the north-east of the Island at more than 1000 meters above sea level. Here the fruits are <\/span>gathered entirely by hand<\/b>, transported to the facility <\/span>on the back of a donkey<\/b> (<\/span>it\u2019s more traditional that way!<\/span><\/i>), and <\/span>selected one by one<\/b>, to obtain an extremely high quality flour that\u2019s 100% local and natural and has zero impact on the environment. The care and attention that the two dedicate to their beloved Corsica and to the environment is, to this day, the project\u2019s defining trait, so much so that, having been recognized as a <\/span>Production Facility that Safeguards the Environment<\/b> by France, Pietra is also among the <\/span>first breweries <\/b>to invest in, as early as 2011, the creation of a <\/span>CO2 recovery system<\/b> that reduces the emissions of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. The facility is <\/span>able to recover almost all of its annual requirements<\/b>, thus eliminating not only direct emissions, but also direct emissions related to transport.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"birra<\/p>\n

IT\u2019S MORE ITALIAN THAT IT REALIZES<\/b><\/h2>\n

Today, with its 50,000 hl (<\/span>2,500 when it first started<\/span><\/i>), 50 employees, and a revenue of \u20ac16 million, the brewery is one of <\/span>the island\u2019s most financially significant projects as well as one of the most virtuous for the planet<\/b>. When it\u2019s the right season,<\/span> chestnut beer <\/b>can be obtained <\/span>directly from the fresh fruit<\/b>, as long as it\u2019s cooked. These can be boiled (<\/span>maintaining neutral characteristics<\/span><\/i>) or roasted (which adds a smokey aroma).<\/span><\/p>\n

Chestnuts are, even iconographically, one of the unquestionable symbols of fall and winter. But how much do you really know about this love affair?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":16650,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[102,83,652],"tags":[491,550],"solution_tag":[],"class_list":["post-17861","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-curiosity-and-education","category-magazine-en","category-public-post","tag-beer","tag-intriguing"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBi\u00e8re a la Ch\u00e0taigne: chestnuts and beer, a love story - Vinhood<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.vinhood.com\/en\/magazine-en\/biere-a-la-chataigne-storia-damore-castagne-e-birra\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bi\u00e8re a la Ch\u00e0taigne: chestnuts and beer, a love story - Vinhood\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Chestnuts are, even iconographically, one of the unquestionable symbols of fall and winter. 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As compared to a normal lager, in addition to the primary aromatic qualities, chestnuts <\/span>add bitterness, soften the body, and make the foam delicate and creamy<\/b>. Aside from Corsica, and France in general, <\/span>chestnut ale has truly taken root in only two other countries<\/b>: Italy and the US. Without negating its origins, Italy is proud to be the number one <\/span>producer of chestnut beer since 2011<\/b>, when <\/span>Birra Busalla<\/span><\/a> (Savignone, GE) began selling <\/span>Castagnasca<\/span><\/a>, in authentic <\/span>Bi\u00e8re \u00e0 la Ch\u00e2taigne <\/span><\/i>style<\/span>. <\/span><\/i>Today Italy is the only country in the world to have dozens and dozens of chestnut beers, both stable and seasonal, and, though it fully acknowledges the paternity, is the <\/span>country that is most representative of this style<\/b>.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"